foundations: the french trench

Francoise Hardy french trenchin' it like a pro ca. 1966

one of my most cherished things is an amazing vintage hand-me-down olive-beige trenchcoat given to me by my mom. it fits me like a bespoke masterpiece. when i wear it, strangers on the street come up and compliment me. i haven't worn it in a while, and for the time being it's safely stored in my closet back in NYC. my mom gave it to me shortly after i graduated from college, and ever since, the trench has been a special wardrobe staple.

over the years, i've managed to acquire a mini collection of trenches - the first one being the gift from my mom. the second trench, from Helmut Lang and a clearance sale score, is elegantly avant-garde, and my third, the one i wear the most these days, is by A.P.C.

my A.P.C. trench 

much has been written in print and online about the virtues and stylish elements of the trench, so i won't retrace those lines here. for me, a trench embodies all of the dashing legacies of military uniform in a uniquely modern, urban way. there are, of course, all the campy trench references to flashers, shady dudes trying to sell you stuff in an alley, Cold War spies, noir-esque private detectives, and Inspector Gadget. but at the end of the day (and especially in the beginning of spring), the trench is a no-nonsense utilitarian coat that makes you look good while you're trudging through a rainstorm.

but in case you need some convincing, here's some trenchy goodness for your perusal:

Meryl Streep in Kramer vs. Kramer, via vogue uk

Nine D'Urso via Parisian Chic

Alexa Chung doing her usual effortless thing

rocking an A.P.C. trench via streetpeeper

...and one of my favorite photos ever, Emmanuelle Alt + her daughter via jak & jil

the review of my A.P.C. trench: 

the material and cut is excellent - mine is the size 34. it's fitted around the shoulder area but still has a somewhat roomy cut throughout, as befits a classic trench that drapes properly and has room to layer underneath. the fabric of mine is 100% cotton, and it is a substantial, quality cotton gabardine, which is a thicker material that holds its shape and 'hangs' well. i prefer my classic trench to have a slight structure to the material, as opposed to lesser-quality versions that are overly filmy, prone to wrinkling, and too light.

all the buttons and stitching and details (ie: the lapel, epaulet, belt buckles etc) feel solid and sturdy. the only thing i did was to take my trench in to my trusted tailor and get the sleeves shortened slightly so that they would hit right at my wrist. this called for a somewhat tricky alterations job as my tailor had to move the sleeve buckle loops up to where he shortened the sleeves, but he did a fantastic job. (i prefer the slightly cropped-sleeve length on my trenches.) the length hits me right at the knee, and a little higher if i'm wearing heels. overall, it's easily one of my favorite spring foundation pieces year after year.

Burberry's original             |           A.P.C.'s french trench

j.crew's american version

when it comes to the trench, i'd recommend buying the best quality that you can afford. this is an item that is worth splurging a bit on, and you'll be able to wear the one you buy for years and years. 

do you like the trench? if you have one, how do you like to wear yours?