foundations: shoe care and maintenance

the holy trinity of footwear: 

Chucks,  GG biker boots, Marant boots

let me begin by saying that if you want to quickly break in a brand new pair of Chucks, just wear them for a week in China. your Chucks will thank you for giving them that authentically worn-in look in record time!

as for the rest of my shoes, over the years i figured out a relatively inexpensive and effective method for shoe care and maintenance. this is what you'll need:

1. a reliable and skilled cobbler/shoe-repair shop 

2. a quality water protectant spray for leather + suede (i like this kit too) (if you're in the UK, get it here)

3. a nourishing conditioning and protecting cream for leather + suede (if you're in the UK, get it here)

4. a clear shoe-shine buffing sponge

5. a simple suede/nubuck cleaning kit

6. cedar shoe trees* (optional, only if you have oxford/lace-up shoes that have a structured shape and a stiffer leather that should be maintained)

#2 and #3 - pre-treating leather and suede shoes:

i swear by Collonil's water protectant spray and conditioning cream for both leather and suede because the stuff really works. generally speaking, i use the spray for mostly shoes, and both Collonil products on some of my handbags (ie: my Mulberry satchel). the conditioning cream - Collonil calls it a 'gel', but the consistency is more like a creamy lotion - moisturizes the leather while also adding a nice layer of water protection. even though the cream is white, it blends and absorbs completely into any color leather and leaves no residue, rendering it rich and supple.

• case in point: last year, i sprayed my new suede Isabel Marant boots with two coats of Collonil. suede is more delicate than leather, and must be treated with a water protectant spray (ideally first before wearing, and then periodically afterwards). the spray goes on and while damp it will darken a bit, but don't worry, after about 20-30 minutes it dries to an invisible finish, won't change the color of your shoes, and lasts. i haven't re-sprayed my dickers since and have been wearing them all around SH and they are still going strong. 

• another true story: last year, i bought a grey lambskin Jerome Dreyfuss billy bag and since it was a light color, i sprayed it with two coats of Collonil when it was brand new. after a few months, the bag proved to be a bit big for my needs, so i sold it to a friend. she accidentally spilled an entire mug of hot black tea all over the bag within the first week of using it, and after freaking out and letting it air dry, found that there were no stains or damage to the leather. we were both amazed and exceedingly impressed.

when to go to the cobbler:

if you want to make your money go far with the shoes you own, cultivating a good relationship with your go-to cobbler is absolutely essential. this is on par with the relationship you have with your dry cleaner, your hairstylist...you get the idea.

if the outsoles are leather... 

(look for the 'leather sole', or 'vero cuoio' stamp on the bottom)

bring those to the cobbler for a Vibram* half-sole, ideally when they're still new or new-ish.

better and high quality shoes are often made with leather outsoles, and usually they are very smooth and prone to slipping on slick surfaces. if the original outsoles are thin (ie: my Marant dicker boots), which is common on virtually all stylish/dressy shoes, a grippy Vibram half-sole is key. a skilled cobbler will custom fit and mold a half-sole onto the leather outsole, and in some cases do custom detailing to make the half sole design mesh with the original design of the shoe. you can get custom red Vibram half-soles for your Louboutins, for example. 

there is nothing worse than slipping or falling from an improperly-treated pair of new shoes! doing this will also extend the life of your shoes significantly. when the Vibram wears thin or starts to peel or come apart from heavy wear (usually only after a year or more), you can just bring the shoes to your cobbler to be re-soled, and won't have to worry about wearing holes through a pair of seasonless favorite shoes.

if the outsoles are rubber...

no need to bring those to the cobbler.

sometimes shoes at the lower/mid and high/very high-end ranges come with rubber outsoles. usually this is functionally part of the design. think Converse Chucks, Sorel snow boots, or the classic Frye biker boots that come with a very rugged, oil-resistant rubber lug sole. crepe rubber (it's got a nubby, slightly squishy texture) is another common one that's very low-maintenance - my Margiela shearling boots have that material as the outsole. also, my Golden Goose biker boots have a high quality molded rubber heel and outsole. these soles will last for ages! some of the shoes with rubber outsoles will wear out (ie: Converse) and there's not much you can do. others can be resoled. the one slight downside is that it is a bit more of a complicated job at the shoe repair shop. but a skilled cobbler can definitely do the job with finesse.

heel caps

for shoes that have a heel (especially thin/stiletto ones), 99% of the time, they come with a pretty useless plastic heel cap. even if you don't find it necessary to get a Vibram half sole put on, get the heel cap replaced by your cobbler with a rubber one. all my low/mid/high-heel pumps and dressy shoes have rubber heel caps for stability and traction. the plastic ones are not only slippery as hell (think of how the heel of your shoe always strikes the ground first...), but they also wear out really fast, and when they do, the metal tip of the heel becomes exposed. this sounds bad...and is bad for your foot. 

i don't do this for all my shoes, as it can get expensive and is sometimes unnecessary. but all my 'serious' shoes get this treatment. i generally don't purchase shoes unless they are well made and functional enough to last beyond one season - and therefore, worth putting in the bit of extra money for care and maintenance. for instance, i will always get Vibram half soles + rubber heel caps for boots (which will see a lot of heavy wear across seasons).

*a note on Vibram - when you take your shoes to the cobbler, make sure you ask for Vibram brand rubber half-soles. some shoe repair shops will use other brands that are inferior in quality and material. don't settle for those. Vibram is the best, hands down.

the express buffing/polish sponge:

this is perfect for doing a quick polish when you're running out the door, or a quick clean after you get home. i use the neutral/clear polish sponge to recondition and clean off any salt/water stains from my boots in the winter as well. 

the suede brush/'eraser block':

i haven't had to use this honestly since i Colloniled my dicker boots, but this is a super easy and inexpensive kit to keep around when you need to get out a scuff mark or just to maintain the nap/texture of the suede. 

do you have a method for taking care of/maintaining your shoes?